As I stood at the edge of Hout Bay harbor, the salty breeze whipped across my face. My dive gear was packed, and we were ready to explore four shipwrecks that lie silent in these waters. Here in Cape Town, South Africa, where two oceans meet.
These waters, known as the Cape of Storms, have a fierce reputation over centuries, claiming countless ships, making this their final resting place. Today, these shipwrecks are underwater museums, each telling its tale of human endeavor and nature's raw power. Join me as I share a little bit of the history of these vessels and guide you through an underwater visual journey of their remains. Grab a warm drink, get comfortable, and let's explore these iron giants below.
Day One
The early morning sunrays crept over Hout Bay harbor with a warm palette of light yellows and orange. I clutched my steaming coffee cup, its warmth a welcome comfort against the crisp March morning. As the boat launched, we jumped into our wetsuits and got our scuba kit ready and loaded. Leaving the harbor, we passed Cape Cormorants sunbathing, welcoming the heat with open wings, their black feathers glistening in the sunlight. Plump seals lounged on the jetties like lazy sunbathers at a resort, their wet coats gleaming in the morning light. One particularly large fellow rolled over, fixing us with an inquisitive stare as we passed.
I bounced lightly on the rubber pontoon of the rigid inflatable boat (RIB). Enjoying the gorgeous scenery of Hout Bay, surrounded by mountains, and felt the icy pinch of the cool morning air on my face. Today, we’re diving two shipwrecks outside the bay.
The Sentinel or Hangberg
Numerous dive sites on the Atlantic Cape Peninsula are easily accessed by launching the boat in Hout Bay harbor. After launching, it moves out of the bay around The Sentinel or Hangberg, where a large crane and part of a ship’s superstructure become visible. This sight excites the divers, eager to explore this massive wreck.
Bos 400 Crane Barge Shipwreck
On June 26, 1994, a French crane barge, BOS 400, ran aground while being towed by a tugboat.
The tugboat was hired to tow the BOS 400 from Pointe-Noire, Republic of Congo, to Cape Town, South Africa. During a severe storm, the towrope snapped, causing the vessel to run aground at Duiker Point near Sandy Bay, the site of the earlier SS Oakburn wreck. As we got closer, I felt tiny next to the enormous rusty crane jutting out of the water - and that was just the tip of the iceberg. What waited beneath the surface was even more remarkable.
We prepared for the dive, bobbing on the calm sea. The sun beat down on our black wetsuits as we tried to move swiftly. I was grateful for the extra heat; I would need it underwater.
Buddy checks done, regulators in, three, two, one, go! I felt the cold trickling into my wetsuit as we hit the water; it was colder than expected.
The group gathered on the surface, and we slowly descended. We found visibility was a slightly murky 10+ meters, creating a mysterious feel as we explored the expansive steel structure. Large boulders with swim-throughs create interesting topography and kelp patches around the wreck.
This is a massive dive site, as the ship was about 100 meters long. There’s a lot to explore. The deepest point we reached was 23 meters, and we enjoyed a 40-minute dive. Despite the cold, we didn’t want to leave because there was so much to see. The water was a chilly 10°C.
Finally, we surfaced. I struggled to get my clips loose with my cold, stiff fingers. It was nice to be back on the boat, enjoying the warm sun and steaming hot chocolate.
Being out at sea is a special treat. I enjoy the scenery and happily listen to the chatter and laughs of the excited divers discussing all the interesting things they saw. With a proper surface interval, there’s time to warm up for the second dive, which is just a few hundred meters further.
SS Maori Steamship Shipwreck
The SS Maori was a British refrigerated cargo steamship that wrecked in 1909 while transporting frozen meat and produce from Australia and New Zealand to the UK.
As I descended on this second dive, I was struck by the impressive kelp forest surrounding this wreck. The long stems and large fronds of the Ecklonia maxima reaching up toward the surface make divers appear small in comparison.
Read more about The Kelp Forests of South Africa
This large ship, which measures 122.7 meters (402.6 feet) long, has transformed into a thriving ecosystem after lying on the ocean floor for over a century. Nature has claimed her as its own, transforming the steel hull into a bustling underwater city.
This wreck is overgrown with sea life and has interesting swim-throughs. They’re large enough to easily get through with your scuba gear and create excellent photographic opportunities. Once your torch or strobe light hits them, the vibrant colors of the multicolored sea fans, sponges, and corals stand out.
Inside the swim-throughs, once the ship’s open decks, we found pods of lobsters with long swaying tentacles sticking out of their crevices. Schools of small silver hottentot seabream take cover from larger predators and scattered as the bubbles left my regulator.
Despite my desire to explore more, the bone-chilling water eventually won out. After reaching depths of about 20 meters and spending just over half an hour in the icy water, we reluctantly ascended for our safety stop.
We ended our day with a stop at Duiker Island (Seal Island) before heading back to the harbor. This 0.4-hectare rock houses a large Cape Fur Seal colony and various marine bird species.
Everyone was excited for the next day’s dives. The conditions looked perfect, and we hoped they’d remain that way overnight.
As we returned to the harbor after an incredible first day of diving, the excitement was palpable. We had explored two magnificent wrecks, each with its own unique story and underwater landscape. But our adventure wasn't over. The next day would bring us two more historic wrecks in Hout Bay.
Read about these fascinating dives in Part 2 of Iron Giants Below.
We protect what we love. Join the movement!
by Madelein Wolfaardt
All images ©️ by @sealife_madeleinwolf
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